The so-called „Winter Worm, Summer Grass“ (冬虫夏草, dōng chóng xià cǎo) is given a monumental presence in the Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) stores of Sheung Wan, Hong Kong—sometimes through large-scale sculptures or display models that loom in the shopfronts. On Des Voeux Road West, and in a few other areas of Sheung Wan, there is a whole series of such shops located in close proximity to one another—sometimes forming an unbroken row.
This peculiar omnipresence in the district raises questions for the uninitiated, non-local visitor—first, because it’s not immediately clear what exactly is being sold, and second, because it seems counterintuitive that so many of these shops would operate in such close proximity at a central trading point. Living next to these stores for several months—and with one of them immediately built into the tower complex where I initially stayed—my curiosity was naturally sparked.
The ‚Ophiocordyceps sinensis‚ also known as the ‚caterpillar fungus‘ is mainly found in the meadows above 3,500 metres (11,500 ft) on the Tibetan Plateau in Tibet and the Himalayan regions of Bhutan, India, and Nepal. It parasitizes larvae of ghost moths and produces a fruiting body which is valued in TCM as an aphrodisiac – they allegedly increase the libidinal drive.
Caterpillar fungus contains the compound cordycepin, an adenosine derivative that interferes with cellular RNA synthesis and may produce anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and anti-cancer effects in the body. Due to the frequent presence of toxic substances like arsenic and other heavy metals in naturally collected caterpillar fungus, concerns about its safety have grown. In response, China’s State Administration for Market Regulation implemented strict regulations on its sale starting in 2016.
Nonetheless, the Chinese caterpillar fungus is considered a highly sought-after medicinal mushroom in TCM. Known by the poetic name „Winter Worm, Summer Grass“ (冬虫夏草, dōng chóng xià cǎo), it refers to the fungus’s unusual life cycle: in winter, it exists as a parasitic infection inside a caterpillar, and in summer, it sprouts a grass-like fruiting body from the insect’s remains. This dual form—animal in winter, plant-like in summer—is the basis for both its name and its mythical appeal.
Starting in the 1980s, prices for wild-harvested cordyceps rose rapidly. Between 1997 and mid-2008, the value increased nearly ninefold, driven by rising demand and limited natural supply. Today, in Hong Kong, high-grade wild cordyceps can sell for over HK$200,000 per kilogram (approx. US$25,000), depending on quality, origin, and size. However, only small amounts are used per dose—typically between 1 and 3 grams per day—meaning a single kilogram can supply hundreds of applications. Cultivated versions are more affordable but considered less potent in traditional practice.
Regarding the second observation: The clustering of these TCM shops—especially those selling rare and high-value goods like cordyceps—along Des Voeux Road West reflects a historical urban pattern of specialized market zoning common in many Chinese cities. Sheung Wan has long been a hub for traditional medicine and dried goods trading, and having many shops side-by-side fosters both price transparency and consumer trust, while also allowing wholesale networks to operate efficiently. The area functions as both a retail space and a distribution center, catering to locals, medical practitioners, and international buyers alike.
Alongside fungal beings, hemp, and nightshade plants, the obscurest „artifacts“ displayed in TCM windows are—for the eyes of a Westerner—the most horrific parts of animal corpses, both born and unborn. One TCM store in Sheung Wan publicly showcases mummified deer fetuses, deer antlers (with skull), and wild-growing ginseng in a vitrine facing Queen’s Road. Because of obvious ethical reasons, animal welfare laws, and health-related concerns, such traditional ingredients are forbidden in most parts of the world. In Sheung Wan, however, there appears to be little to no concern about such insensitive vendition.